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Image 1/3: Remove the hot end. Image 2/3: Disconnect the two connectors securing the heater cartridge and thermistor wires. Image 3/3: Disconnect the two connectors securing the heater cartridge and thermistor wires.
  • Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the M3 screw holding the hot end in.

  • Remove the hot end.

  • Disconnect the two connectors securing the heater cartridge and thermistor wires.

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Image 1/2: Turn the coupler at the bottom of the threaded rod clockwise. Image 2/2: Using a 2.5mm hex key and a 7/32" wrench (or your fingers), remove the four M3 screws securing the layer cooling fan to the carriage.
  • Raise the carriage up high enough to be able to access the screws holding the extruder on.

    • Turn the coupler at the bottom of the threaded rod clockwise.

  • Using a 2.5mm hex key and a 7/32" wrench (or your fingers), remove the four M3 screws securing the layer cooling fan to the carriage.

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Image 1/2: Remove the extruder and disconnect the 3-pin probe cable. Image 2/2: Remove the extruder and disconnect the 3-pin probe cable.
  • Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the three M3 screws holding the extruder on.

  • Remove the extruder and disconnect the 3-pin probe cable.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Insert the printed E3D v6 Adapter into the extruder as shown.

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Image 1/1:
  • Reinstall the extruder using the three M3 screws from earlier.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Take the new hot end and trim the heater cartridge and thermistor wires down so they extend about 50mm from the top of the fan.

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Image 1/2: Male pins go on the heater cartridge. Image 2/2: Female pins go on the thermistor wires.
  • Install Molex connectors:

    • Male pins go on the heater cartridge.

    • Female pins go on the thermistor wires.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Cut the TPFE tubing down to 39mm and insert it into the hot end.

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Image 1/2: If needed, flip the fan and fan shroud around so the fan points out and the wires easily reach their respective connectors. Image 2/2: Make sure that the long end of the heat block does not stick out toward the rear of the printer. It must be oriented in such a way that it will not come into contact with the printer frame during homing.
  • Insert the hot end back into the carriage and install the M3 screw to hold it in place.

    • If needed, flip the fan and fan shroud around so the fan points out and the wires easily reach their respective connectors.

    • Make sure that the long end of the heat block does not stick out toward the rear of the printer. It must be oriented in such a way that it will not come into contact with the printer frame during homing.

I am struggling at this part.

When i try to insert the hot end to the adapter. It just cannot fix properly and the hot end is not fixed completely.

Any tips that you can give to secure the hotend to the adapter?

Tony Chan - Reply

There's really not a whole lot to troubleshoot. Either it fits or it doesn't, and if it doesn't you need to figure out which part is too big or too small. It could be a poorly machined part on either side, though it's hard to imagine either one making a machining error that would result in such a difference.

MatterHackers - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Connect the heater cartridge and thermistor wires using the newly installed connectors.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Reinstall the fan and install the new fan shroud using the four M3 screws and nuts from earlier.

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Image 1/3: Feed the fan wires through the opening with the other wires. Image 2/3: Feed the fan wires through the opening with the other wires. Image 3/3: Feed the fan wires through the opening with the other wires.
  • Unwind the spiral wire wrap.

  • Feed the fan wires through the opening with the other wires.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Wind the spiral wire wrap back around all of the wires.

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Image 1/3: Using a 7/16" wrench, loosen the nut holding the power input cable on to the printer's frame and remove the cable. Image 2/3: Using a 7/16" wrench, loosen the nut holding the power input cable on to the printer's frame and remove the cable. Image 3/3: Using a 7/16" wrench, loosen the nut holding the power input cable on to the printer's frame and remove the cable.
  • Remove the main power input connector from its socket.

  • Using a 7/16" wrench, loosen the nut holding the power input cable on to the printer's frame and remove the cable.

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Image 1/3: Cut the fan wires and strip about 1/2" off the ends. Image 2/3: Cut the fan wires and strip about 1/2" off the ends. Image 3/3: Cut the fan wires and strip about 1/2" off the ends.
  • Cut the two wires as shown.

  • Cut the fan wires and strip about 1/2" off the ends.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Solder the fan wires to the two power line wires as shown.

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Image 1/1:
  • Plug the main power connector back into its socket and stand the printer back upright.

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Image 1/2: Open the [https://github.com/Printrbot/Marlin|Marlin firmware] and navigate to the Configuration.h file. Image 2/2: On line 125, change the 0 to a 5. The line should read:
  • Plug the printer in to power and connect the USB cable to a computer running the Arduino IDE. (supported lib versions: 1.0.6 | 1.6.12 | 1.6.13 | 1.6.5-r5 | 1.6.9 | 1.8.1 | 1.8.2 [lib\version.txt])

  • Open the Marlin firmware and navigate to the Configuration.h file.

  • On line 125, change the 0 to a 5. The line should read:

    • #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5

  • To print materials that require temperatures higher than 275° C (like polycarbonate), you'll also need to edit line 150:

    • #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 300

  • Compile/Verify Marlin. Install the Teensy 2.0++ Libraries if required (AT90USB 1286).

  • Upload the new firmware to the Printrbot Simple Metal.

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Image 1/1: Heat the nozzle to operating temperature (260° C).
  • Connect to the printer through MatterControl and, if needed, raise the carriage up high enough to be able to get a wrench onto the nozzle.

  • Heat the nozzle to operating temperature (260° C).

  • Using an adjustable wrench and a 7mm socket, tighten the nozzle.

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Image 1/1: Using MatterControl, manually move the nozzle close enough to the bed that a piece of paper is able to move around between them with a little resistance.
  • To ensure that the hot end is the correct distance from the bed, the Z height probe may need to be adjusted.

  • Using MatterControl, manually move the nozzle close enough to the bed that a piece of paper is able to move around between them with a little resistance.

  • Adjust the Z height probe until the you are able to home all three axes and the nozzle comes to rest at the correct height.

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Image 1/1:

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Finish Line

2 other people completed this guide.

Ryan Lutz

Member since: 06/30/2015

1,595 Reputation

15 Guides authored

3 Comments

Can you help? I get an error when I compile the firmware for my Rev D Simple Metal using the latest Printrbot Marlin software (https://github.com/Printrbot/Marlin) and changing the MOTHERBOARD from 84 (Rev F) to 81 (Rev D) in Configuration.h:

#ifndef MOTHERBOARD

#define MOTHERBOARD 81

#endif

Erro compiling with Arduino 1.0.4:

In file included from Marlin.h:23,

from BlinkM.cpp:5:

pins.h:197:2: error: #error Unknown MOTHERBOARD value in configuration.h

In file included from Marlin.h:41,

from BlinkM.cpp:5:

MarlinSerial.h: In member function 'int MarlinSerial::available()':

MarlinSerial.h:100: error: 'rx_buffer' was not declared in this scope

...

MarlinSerial.h: In member function 'void MarlinSerial::checkRx()':

MarlinSerial.h:114: error: 'UCSRA' was not declared in this scope

MarlinSerial.h:114: error: 'RXC' was not declared in this scope

MarlinSerial.h:115: error: 'UDR' was not declared in this scope

MarlinSerial.h:116: error: 'rx_buffer' was not declared in this scope

Scott Miller - Reply

It looks like Printrbot made some changes to the firmware and do not support board 81 in the current version of the firware; at least it's not defined in the pins.h file. Here's a link to a recent change that might account for the removal of the definition: https://github.com/Printrbot/Marlin/comm...

You'll want to contact the Printrbot development team for more information.

Ryan Lutz -

So if I understand this correctly you need the 3D printer adapter component in order to attach this to the Printrbot? Is that the case? Is there no way do this without that adapter If so it's an annoying hold-up. My ceramic hot-end is damaged and I was considering this as a replacement but it sounds like before you can add it, you need a functional 3D printer to make specialized parts.

Bill M - Reply

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