Introduction
At MatterHackers we are constantly tinkering with our machines. In the back of the office we discovered a discarded Makerbot Replicator 2 just itching for a face lift. Since we have gotten quite a few requests to make this upgrade available for you makers, we thought we'd give it a shot. As it turns out, with just a few tools it is an easy modification, and (more importantly) the results are fantastic.
This guide was written for the single extruder Makerbot Replicator, however it should be applicable to the dual extruder model as well. The kit now includes a design for a dual extruder mount.
Note: This guide will work for any machine with a Mark8 (MK8) Extruder. For example: MakerBot Replicator 2, Makerbot Replicator 2X, Flashforge Creator X, Flashforge Creator Pro, Powerspec PRO, Monoprice Maker Architect, CTC Bizer, Wanhao Duplicator 4 and a few other equivalent machines.
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Print out required parts:
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E3D Mount
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E3D Lock
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EZStruder Mount
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Remove and disassemble the Makerbot hotend.
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Screw nozzle into heating block.
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Screw the heating block into the heat sink.
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Attach the cooling fan.
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Attach the E3D Mount Lock to the top of the heat sink
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Insert the heater cartridge into heat block of the E3D hotend.
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Secure the cartridge using provided screw and 2mm allen wrench.
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Insert stock thermocouple into E3D.
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Secure with the E3D thermistor screw and washer using 2mm allen wrench.
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Place E3D Mount on the printer's carriage with the E3D hotend placed so that the wires are below the carriage.
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Secure with M3x10 screws and nuts.
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Attach the E3D Mount Lock to E3D Mount using M3 x 10mm screws as pictured.
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Remove the covering from the bottom of the Makerbot.
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Find and unplug Extruder A.
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Also unplug Extruder B if you are working on a dual and want to replace both.
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Snip the black/white wires to 12cm.
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Snip the red/black wires to 12cm.
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Do not cut the green/black or yellow/black wires.
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Strip heat sink fan and heating cartridge wires to prepare for splicing.
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Solder or crimp wires together.
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Match wire colors for fan.
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Colors do not matter for heater cartridge.
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Plug extruder(s) back into the board.
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Use the 'Preheat' utility to test heat the new block.
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Remove the hobbed gear from the old extruder motor using the 1.5mm Allen wrench.
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Attach the hobbed gear that came with your EzStruder with the hobbed part towards the motor.
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Attach the red lever over the hobbed gear with the red lever rotated 90° clockwise from the motor’s plug.
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Attach the black part so the metal piece is facing away from the motor.
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Attach bowden fitting into the aluminum bracket.
![Image 1/1: [https://www.matterhackers.com/downloads/AMIfv95pfKwuUYZ51q9GygrWtSFYPSAjAGHBItEiy5TtOqTGkmAIXuHzs34jvK8sSfyyTz4TFytofeJuIa94t3-eZJux6S7jRAdhDwOmxw6XYDDRTF5MzHNcjOHnotTtDHRmzFBKi1TiDKzGloMOBbQ-qoznA9DyIRUNvRzvdH5rqghP5FChBQE|Hole Template]](https://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/matterhackers/xFkUeCA3pG5ODaxx.medium)
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Attach the EzStruder Mount Template to the back of the machine making sure that it lines up above where the filament will be located and is clear of the motors on the inside.
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Drill holes for each screw using the template as a guide.
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Screw the mount into place from the inside of the machine (M3x10 [4]).
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Place the EzStruder into the mount and screw it in place using the M3x14 and M3x16 (2.5mm Allen wrench).
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Attach the bowden tube to both the extruder and hotend.
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Plug in motor.
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Wrap wires back up in the wire sheath.
There you have it! You just upgraded your printer.
You will next want to calibrate your extruder. Here is a guide to do so.
There you have it! You just upgraded your printer.
You will next want to calibrate your extruder. Here is a guide to do so.
