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How to Install an E3D v6 HotEnd on a Lulzbot TAZ 5

Written By: Ryan Lutz (and 2 other contributors)
  • Comments: 4
  • Favorites: 0
  • Completions: 1

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

33

Time Required

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Sections

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Introduction

NOTE: This guide is applicable to most TAZ printers, but is specific to the TAZ 5 printers manufactured after July 2015. Versions prior to these had multiple smaller pin harnesses for connecting the hot end electronics, but the wires were all the same albeit in a different configuration.

Tools

Parts

  1. Make sure the printer and power supply are off and unplug the power supply from the printer. Remove any filament from the extruder assembly.

    • Make sure the printer and power supply are off and unplug the power supply from the printer.

    • Remove any filament from the extruder assembly.

    Edit

  2. Unplug the pin harness. Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the M3 screw securing the extruder assembly to the carriage plate. Reinstall the screw into the insert on the carriage plate to keep track of it for reassembly.

    • Unplug the pin harness.

    • Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the M3 screw securing the extruder assembly to the carriage plate.

    • Reinstall the screw into the insert on the carriage plate to keep track of it for reassembly.

    • Lift the extruder assembly up and off the carriage.

    Edit

  3. Using a 1.5mm hex key, remove the M2 screw securing the old blower fan.

    • Using a 1.5mm hex key, remove the M2 screw securing the old blower fan.

    • The old blower fan will not be reused.

    Edit

  4. Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the four M3 screws securing the layer fan to the layer fan shroud.

    • Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the four M3 screws securing the layer fan to the layer fan shroud.

    • Once removed from the shroud, keep the screws in the layer fan for reuse during reassembly.

    Edit

  5. Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the two M3 screws securing the layer fan shroud to the extruder assembly.

    • Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the two M3 screws securing the layer fan shroud to the extruder assembly.

    • Reinstall the screws into the inserts on the extruder assembly to keep track of them for reassembly.

    Edit

  6. Using a 3mm hex key, remove the two M4 screws securing the hot end plate to the extruder assembly. Make sure to keep these screws in a safe place as they will be reused for reassembly.

    • Using a 3mm hex key, remove the two M4 screws securing the hot end plate to the extruder assembly.

    • Make sure to keep these screws in a safe place as they will be reused for reassembly.

    • Once the screws are removed, everything should come apart as shown.

    Edit

  7. Depending which iteration of the TAZ 5 you have, a "TAZ 5 0.5mm Nozzle" sticker may need to be removed for this step. Remove the following pins from the extruder assembly-side wiring harness: Pins 5 & 6: Heater cartridge

    • Depending which iteration of the TAZ 5 you have, a "TAZ 5 0.5mm Nozzle" sticker may need to be removed for this step.

    • Remove the following pins from the extruder assembly-side wiring harness:

    • Pins 5 & 6: Heater cartridge

    • Pins 9 & 10: Blower fan

    • Pins 15 & 16: Thermistor

    • To remove a pin, push in on the small metal tab on the side of the harness with a sharp object, then push down on the end of the pin with a flat object and pull the wire free.

    • Pin diagram from Lulzbot's documentation: http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/5.0_0.5n...

    Edit

  8. With the pins removed, the harness should now look like the first picture shown. Clip off the zip tie holding the wires together and remove the old hot end and blower fan. Clip off the zip tie holding the wires together and remove the old hot end and blower fan.

    • With the pins removed, the harness should now look like the first picture shown.

    • Clip off the zip tie holding the wires together and remove the old hot end and blower fan.

    Edit

  9. Since the new hot end is longer than the old one, we are going to print a new duct for the layer cooling fan. We will need to extract the inserts from the old duct so they can be reused. If you have extra M3 inserts, you can skip this step. This step is best done with the shroud in a bench vice.

    • Since the new hot end is longer than the old one, we are going to print a new duct for the layer cooling fan. We will need to extract the inserts from the old duct so they can be reused.

    • If you have extra M3 inserts, you can skip this step.

    • This step is best done with the shroud in a bench vice.

    • Take one of the four screws from the layer fan and screw it in to one of the inserts, leaving enough length to grip it with a pair of needle-nose pliers.

    • Heat up the screw with a soldering iron and apply upward pressure with the pliers until the insert comes out.

    • Before handling, wait until the screw and insert cool completely or dip them into water to cool them more quickly.

    • Repeat for the other three inserts.

    Edit

  10. Place one of the four inserts you removed in the previous step over one of the holes on the new layer fan shroud. Insert the soldering iron straight down into the hole as shown in the first picture and apply downward pressure until the insert sinks into place. Be careful not to press too hard or you risk sinking the insert farther into the hole than it needs to go.

    • Place one of the four inserts you removed in the previous step over one of the holes on the new layer fan shroud.

    • Insert the soldering iron straight down into the hole as shown in the first picture and apply downward pressure until the insert sinks into place.

    • Be careful not to press too hard or you risk sinking the insert farther into the hole than it needs to go.

    • Repeat for the other three inserts.

    Edit

  11. Cut the wires 125mm from the top of the heat sink fan as shown. Cut the wires 125mm from the top of the heat sink fan as shown.

    • Cut the wires 125mm from the top of the heat sink fan as shown.

    Edit

  13. Strip 4-6mm off the end of each wire. Crimp the Molex male terminal pins onto each wire. The pins have two sets of tabs. Use a set of needle nose pliers to fold the inner tabs over the bare wire. Fold the outer tabs over the insulation.

    • Strip 4-6mm off the end of each wire.

    • Crimp the Molex male terminal pins onto each wire.

    • The pins have two sets of tabs. Use a set of needle nose pliers to fold the inner tabs over the bare wire. Fold the outer tabs over the insulation.

    • For extra security, solder the pins onto the wires.

    Edit

  14. Install the pins according to the pin diagram from earlier: Pins 5 & 6: Heater cartridge

    • Install the pins according to the pin diagram from earlier:

    • Pins 5 & 6: Heater cartridge

    • Pin 9: Blower fan red

    • Pin 10: Blower fan black

    • Pins 15 & 16: Thermistor

    • Pin diagram from Lulzbot's documentation: http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/5.0_0.5n...

    Edit

  15. Fit the new plate around the top of the hot end as shown.

    • Fit the new plate around the top of the hot end as shown.

    Edit

  16. Insert the hot end and extruder assembly into the carriage plate as shown. Fit the top of the hot end into the circular indentation on the extruder assembly and reinstall the two M4 screws from earlier.

    • Insert the hot end and extruder assembly into the carriage plate as shown.

    • Fit the top of the hot end into the circular indentation on the extruder assembly and reinstall the two M4 screws from earlier.

    Edit

  17. Install the new layer fan shroud using the two M3 screws you saved from earlier.

    • Install the new layer fan shroud using the two M3 screws you saved from earlier.

    Edit

  18. Wind the layer fan wires around the other hot end wires and reinstall the layer fan using the four M3 screws you saved from earlier. With the layer fan installed, the extruder-hot end assembly is complete.

    • Wind the layer fan wires around the other hot end wires and reinstall the layer fan using the four M3 screws you saved from earlier.

    • With the layer fan installed, the extruder-hot end assembly is complete.

    Edit

  19. Remove the four M3 screws securing the access plate to the control box.

    • Remove the four M3 screws securing the access plate to the control box.

    • The electronics cooling fan is attached to the plate; be careful not to put any strain on the wires as you remove the access plate as they are connected to the main circuit board.

    Edit

  20. Remove the two-pin connector from its socket on the RAMBo board. Remove the two-pin connector from its socket on the RAMBo board.

    • Remove the two-pin connector from its socket on the RAMBo board.

    Edit

  21. Remove the pins from the harness. The process is almost the same as removing the pins from the harness in step 7. Just pull the wires out after pushing in on the metal tabs. The process is almost the same as removing the pins from the harness in step 7. Just pull the wires out after pushing in on the metal tabs.

    • Remove the pins from the harness.

    • The process is almost the same as removing the pins from the harness in step 7. Just pull the wires out after pushing in on the metal tabs.

    Edit

  22. Cut the large end off of the connector pins.

    • Cut the large end off of the connector pins.

    • This is done so that the connectors do not stick out of the power terminal block and cause a short hazard.

    Edit

  23. Remove the main power wire block from the left side of the RAMBo board.

    • Remove the main power wire block from the left side of the RAMBo board.

    Edit

  24. Loosen the screws on the red and black terminals at the end of the power block as shown.

    • Loosen the screws on the red and black terminals at the end of the power block as shown.

    Edit

  25. Insert each fan wire into its respective power block terminal (i.e. red to red, black to black). Tighten the screws firmly to keep the wires in place.

    • Insert each fan wire into its respective power block terminal (i.e. red to red, black to black).

    • Tighten the screws firmly to keep the wires in place.

    • Reinstall the power terminal block into the RAMBo board.

    Edit

  26. Reinstall the access plate with the four M3 screws you removed during disassembly.

    • Reinstall the access plate with the four M3 screws you removed during disassembly.

    Edit

  27. Reinstall the extruder-hot end assembly back onto the carriage with the M3 screw you removed during disassembly. Reinstall the extruder-hot end assembly back onto the carriage with the M3 screw you removed during disassembly. Reinstall the extruder-hot end assembly back onto the carriage with the M3 screw you removed during disassembly.

    • Reinstall the extruder-hot end assembly back onto the carriage with the M3 screw you removed during disassembly.

    Edit

  28. Reconnect the two pin harnesses. Reconnect the two pin harnesses.

    • Reconnect the two pin harnesses.

    Edit

  29. If necessary, turn the heater block so that the long end does not protrude toward the front of the printer. The heater block can be turned either direction; just make sure the wires are not strained to reach.

    • If necessary, turn the heater block so that the long end does not protrude toward the front of the printer.

    • The heater block can be turned either direction; just make sure the wires are not strained to reach.

    • If the long end sticks out toward the front of the printer the heater block will come into contact with the bed corner clamp during homing.

    Edit

  30. Plug the USB cable into the printer. Plug the other end of the USB cable into the computer. Plug the four-pin power supply connector into the printer.

    • Plug the USB cable into the printer.

    • Plug the other end of the USB cable into the computer.

    • Plug the four-pin power supply connector into the printer.

    • Plug the power supply into a wall outlet and flip the switch to the 'on' position.

    Edit

  31. Everything's connected. Flip the printer's power switch.

    • Everything's connected. Flip the printer's power switch.

    • The LCD screen should show the normal boot sequence and the E3D hot end heat sink fan should start spinning.

    Edit

  32. Follow the PID tuning guide to calibrate the new hot end.
    Edit

  33. Connect the printer to MatterControl and set the extruder temperature to 260°C.

    • Connect the printer to MatterControl and set the extruder temperature to 260°C.

    • Using a 7mm socket wrench and an adjustable wrench or tongue-and-groove pliers to hold the heat block steady, tighten the nozzle.

    • Do not over-tighten; one firm adjustment in the right direction is sufficient.

    Edit

  34. Unscrew the thumbscrew almost all the way up. Home the Z axis. Depending on how far the nozzle is from the bed, screw the thumbscrew down a turn or two at a time.

    • Unscrew the thumbscrew almost all the way up.

    • Home the Z axis.

    • Depending on how far the nozzle is from the bed, screw the thumbscrew down a turn or two at a time.

    • Repeat homing and adjusting until the nozzle is the distance of a paper's thickness away from the bed.

    Edit
Finish Line

One other person completed this guide.

Author

with 2 other contributors

Ryan Lutz

Member since: 06/30/2015

1,642 Reputation

15 Guides authored

4 Comments

Add a comment

You have the wrong e3d link. Make sure to buy the 24V, 3.00 mm version, NOT the 12V, 3.00mm version.

I decided to buy a 5V 30x30mm fan to cool the cold end instead of the 12V fan provided with the E3D kit. This removes steps 18-25. The wiring/connectors for the 5V fan go where the blower connectors used to be. I can easily swap out the entire head and replace with my dual extruder when needed.

Matthew Migchelbrink - Reply

Thanks, Matthew; good catch! The link has been updated.

What's the advantage of 5V? I've seen RAMBo boards have trouble supplying enough power to heat sink fans and heat creep occurs, so I just wonder why you chose 5V instead of 12V.

MatterHackers -

Lulzbot decided to use 5V for their micro blower (why 5V and why a blower.. that CFM/pressure drop curve). If you have another Lulzbot toolhead you can keep the cold end voltage cooling mechanism consistent. There's certainly nothing wrong with the steps provided.

Matthew Migchelbrink -

Ah yes, I forgot about the 5V micro-blower fan-- it's been a while since I tinkered with the TAZ. Thanks for your input!

MatterHackers -

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