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Introduction

NOTE: This guide is applicable to most TAZ printers, but is specific to the TAZ 5 printers manufactured after July 2015. Versions prior to these had multiple smaller pin harnesses for connecting the hot end electronics, but the wires were all the same albeit in a different configuration.

Image 1/2: Remove any filament from the extruder assembly. Image 2/2: Remove any filament from the extruder assembly.
  • Make sure the printer and power supply are off and unplug the power supply from the printer.

  • Remove any filament from the extruder assembly.

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Image 1/3: Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the M3 screw securing the extruder assembly to the carriage plate. Image 2/3: Reinstall the screw into the insert on the carriage plate to keep track of it for reassembly. Image 3/3: Lift the extruder assembly up and off the carriage.
  • Unplug the pin harness.

  • Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the M3 screw securing the extruder assembly to the carriage plate.

    • Reinstall the screw into the insert on the carriage plate to keep track of it for reassembly.

  • Lift the extruder assembly up and off the carriage.

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Image 1/1: The old blower fan will not be reused.
  • Using a 1.5mm hex key, remove the M2 screw securing the old blower fan.

  • The old blower fan will not be reused.

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Image 1/1: Once removed from the shroud, keep the screws in the layer fan for reuse during reassembly.
  • Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the four M3 screws securing the layer fan to the layer fan shroud.

    • Once removed from the shroud, keep the screws in the layer fan for reuse during reassembly.

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Image 1/1: Reinstall the screws into the inserts on the extruder assembly to keep track of them for reassembly.
  • Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the two M3 screws securing the layer fan shroud to the extruder assembly.

    • Reinstall the screws into the inserts on the extruder assembly to keep track of them for reassembly.

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Image 1/2: Make sure to keep these screws in a safe place as they will be reused for reassembly. Image 2/2: Once the screws are removed, everything should come apart as shown.
  • Using a 3mm hex key, remove the two M4 screws securing the hot end plate to the extruder assembly.

    • Make sure to keep these screws in a safe place as they will be reused for reassembly.

  • Once the screws are removed, everything should come apart as shown.

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Image 1/3: Remove the following pins from the extruder assembly-side wiring harness: Image 2/3: Pins 5 & 6: Heater cartridge Image 3/3: Pins 9 & 10: Blower fan
  • Depending which iteration of the TAZ 5 you have, a "TAZ 5 0.5mm Nozzle" sticker may need to be removed for this step.

  • Remove the following pins from the extruder assembly-side wiring harness:

    • Pins 5 & 6: Heater cartridge

    • Pins 9 & 10: Blower fan

    • Pins 15 & 16: Thermistor

  • To remove a pin, push in on the small metal tab on the side of the harness with a sharp object, then push down on the end of the pin with a flat object and pull the wire free.

  • Pin diagram from Lulzbot's documentation: http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/5.0_0.5n...

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Image 1/3: Clip off the zip tie holding the wires together and remove the old hot end and blower fan. Image 2/3: Clip off the zip tie holding the wires together and remove the old hot end and blower fan. Image 3/3: Clip off the zip tie holding the wires together and remove the old hot end and blower fan.
  • With the pins removed, the harness should now look like the first picture shown.

  • Clip off the zip tie holding the wires together and remove the old hot end and blower fan.

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Image 1/3: If you have extra M3 inserts, you can skip this step. Image 2/3: This step is best done with the shroud in a bench vice. Image 3/3: Take one of the four screws from the layer fan and screw it in to one of the inserts, leaving enough length to grip it with a pair of needle-nose pliers.
  • Since the new hot end is longer than the old one, we are going to print a new duct for the layer cooling fan. We will need to extract the inserts from the old duct so they can be reused.

  • If you have extra M3 inserts, you can skip this step.

  • This step is best done with the shroud in a bench vice.

  • Take one of the four screws from the layer fan and screw it in to one of the inserts, leaving enough length to grip it with a pair of needle-nose pliers.

  • Heat up the screw with a soldering iron and apply upward pressure with the pliers until the insert comes out.

  • Before handling, wait until the screw and insert cool completely or dip them into water to cool them more quickly.

  • Repeat for the other three inserts.

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Image 1/3: Insert the soldering iron straight down into the hole as shown in the first picture and apply downward pressure until the insert sinks into place. Image 2/3: Be careful not to press too hard or you risk sinking the insert farther into the hole than it needs to go. Image 3/3: Repeat for the other three inserts.
  • Place one of the four inserts you removed in the previous step over one of the holes on the new layer fan shroud.

  • Insert the soldering iron straight down into the hole as shown in the first picture and apply downward pressure until the insert sinks into place.

    • Be careful not to press too hard or you risk sinking the insert farther into the hole than it needs to go.

  • Repeat for the other three inserts.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Cut the wires 125mm from the top of the heat sink fan as shown.

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Image 1/3: Crimp the Molex male terminal pins onto each wire. Image 2/3: The pins have two sets of tabs. Use a set of needle nose pliers to fold the inner tabs over the bare wire. Fold the outer tabs over the insulation. Image 3/3: For extra security, solder the pins onto the wires.
  • Strip 4-6mm off the end of each wire.

  • Crimp the Molex male terminal pins onto each wire.

    • The pins have two sets of tabs. Use a set of needle nose pliers to fold the inner tabs over the bare wire. Fold the outer tabs over the insulation.

  • For extra security, solder the pins onto the wires.

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Image 1/2: Pins 5 & 6: Heater cartridge Image 2/2: Pin 9: Blower fan red
  • Install the pins according to the pin diagram from earlier:

    • Pins 5 & 6: Heater cartridge

    • Pin 9: Blower fan red

    • Pin 10: Blower fan black

    • Pins 15 & 16: Thermistor

  • Pin diagram from Lulzbot's documentation: http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/5.0_0.5n...

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Image 1/1:
  • Fit the new plate around the top of the hot end as shown.

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Image 1/2: Fit the top of the hot end into the circular indentation on the extruder assembly and reinstall the two M4 screws from earlier. Image 2/2: Fit the top of the hot end into the circular indentation on the extruder assembly and reinstall the two M4 screws from earlier.
  • Insert the hot end and extruder assembly into the carriage plate as shown.

  • Fit the top of the hot end into the circular indentation on the extruder assembly and reinstall the two M4 screws from earlier.

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Image 1/1:
  • Install the new layer fan shroud using the two M3 screws you saved from earlier.

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Image 1/2: With the layer fan installed, the extruder-hot end assembly is complete. Image 2/2: With the layer fan installed, the extruder-hot end assembly is complete.
  • Wind the layer fan wires around the other hot end wires and reinstall the layer fan using the four M3 screws you saved from earlier.

  • With the layer fan installed, the extruder-hot end assembly is complete.

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Image 1/1: The electronics cooling fan is attached to the plate; be careful not to put any strain on the wires as you remove the access plate as they are connected to the main circuit board.
  • Remove the four M3 screws securing the access plate to the control box.

  • The electronics cooling fan is attached to the plate; be careful not to put any strain on the wires as you remove the access plate as they are connected to the main circuit board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the two-pin connector from its socket on the RAMBo board.

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Image 1/3: The process is almost the same as removing the pins from the harness in step 7. Just pull the wires out after pushing in on the metal tabs. Image 2/3: The process is almost the same as removing the pins from the harness in step 7. Just pull the wires out after pushing in on the metal tabs. Image 3/3: The process is almost the same as removing the pins from the harness in step 7. Just pull the wires out after pushing in on the metal tabs.
  • Remove the pins from the harness.

  • The process is almost the same as removing the pins from the harness in step 7. Just pull the wires out after pushing in on the metal tabs.

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Image 1/1: This is done so that the connectors do not stick out of the power terminal block and cause a short hazard.
  • Cut the large end off of the connector pins.

  • This is done so that the connectors do not stick out of the power terminal block and cause a short hazard.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the main power wire block from the left side of the RAMBo board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Loosen the screws on the red and black terminals at the end of the power block as shown.

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Image 1/2: Tighten the screws firmly to keep the wires in place. Image 2/2: Reinstall the power terminal block into the RAMBo board.
  • Insert each fan wire into its respective power block terminal (i.e. red to red, black to black).

  • Tighten the screws firmly to keep the wires in place.

  • Reinstall the power terminal block into the RAMBo board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Reinstall the access plate with the four M3 screws you removed during disassembly.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Reinstall the extruder-hot end assembly back onto the carriage with the M3 screw you removed during disassembly.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Reconnect the two pin harnesses.

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Image 1/2: The heater block can be turned either direction; just make sure the wires are not strained to reach. Image 2/2: If the long end sticks out toward the front of the printer the heater block will come into contact with the bed corner clamp during homing.
  • If necessary, turn the heater block so that the long end does not protrude toward the front of the printer.

  • The heater block can be turned either direction; just make sure the wires are not strained to reach.

  • If the long end sticks out toward the front of the printer the heater block will come into contact with the bed corner clamp during homing.

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Image 1/3: Plug the other end of the USB cable into the computer. Image 2/3: Plug the four-pin power supply connector into the printer. Image 3/3: Plug the power supply into a wall outlet and flip the switch to the 'on' position.
  • Plug the USB cable into the printer.

  • Plug the other end of the USB cable into the computer.

  • Plug the four-pin power supply connector into the printer.

  • Plug the power supply into a wall outlet and flip the switch to the 'on' position.

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Image 1/1: The LCD screen should show the normal boot sequence and the E3D hot end heat sink fan should start spinning.
  • Everything's connected. Flip the printer's power switch.

    • The LCD screen should show the normal boot sequence and the E3D hot end heat sink fan should start spinning.

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Image 1/1:

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Image 1/1: Using a 7mm socket wrench and an adjustable wrench or tongue-and-groove pliers to hold the heat block steady, tighten the nozzle.
  • Connect the printer to MatterControl and set the extruder temperature to 260°C.

  • Using a 7mm socket wrench and an adjustable wrench or tongue-and-groove pliers to hold the heat block steady, tighten the nozzle.

  • Do not over-tighten; one firm adjustment in the right direction is sufficient.

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Image 1/3: Home the Z axis. Image 2/3: Depending on how far the nozzle is from the bed, screw the thumbscrew down a turn or two at a time. Image 3/3: Repeat homing and adjusting until the nozzle is the distance of a paper's thickness away from the bed.
  • Unscrew the thumbscrew almost all the way up.

  • Home the Z axis.

  • Depending on how far the nozzle is from the bed, screw the thumbscrew down a turn or two at a time.

  • Repeat homing and adjusting until the nozzle is the distance of a paper's thickness away from the bed.

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Finish Line

One other person completed this guide.

Ryan Lutz

Member since: 06/30/2015

1,595 Reputation

15 Guides authored

4 Comments

You have the wrong e3d link. Make sure to buy the 24V, 3.00 mm version, NOT the 12V, 3.00mm version.

I decided to buy a 5V 30x30mm fan to cool the cold end instead of the 12V fan provided with the E3D kit. This removes steps 18-25. The wiring/connectors for the 5V fan go where the blower connectors used to be. I can easily swap out the entire head and replace with my dual extruder when needed.

Matthew Migchelbrink - Reply

Thanks, Matthew; good catch! The link has been updated.

What's the advantage of 5V? I've seen RAMBo boards have trouble supplying enough power to heat sink fans and heat creep occurs, so I just wonder why you chose 5V instead of 12V.

MatterHackers -

Lulzbot decided to use 5V for their micro blower (why 5V and why a blower.. that CFM/pressure drop curve). If you have another Lulzbot toolhead you can keep the cold end voltage cooling mechanism consistent. There's certainly nothing wrong with the steps provided.

Matthew Migchelbrink -

Ah yes, I forgot about the 5V micro-blower fan-- it's been a while since I tinkered with the TAZ. Thanks for your input!

MatterHackers -

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