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Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the two M3 screws securing the bracket to the top of the extruder carriage.
  • Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the two M3 screws securing the bracket to the top of the extruder carriage.

  • Remove the bracket.

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Disconnect the 20-pin harness.
  • Disconnect the 20-pin harness.

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  • Using a 4mm hex key, remove the three M5 screws securing the extruder assembly to the carriage.

    • Reinstall the screws onto the back of the extruder assembly so as not to lose track of them.

  • Support the extruder assembly with one hand while you remove the screws with the other hand.

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  • Cut the wires down to approximately 22cm in length and strip 8mm off the ends.

  • Crimp on the pins.

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  • Remove the following wires from the harness:

    • Pins 5, 6: Two (thick red) to the heater cartridge

    • Pins 9, 10: Two (thin, one black and one red) to the heat sink blower fan

    • Pins 17, 18: Two (thin, one black and one red) to the hotend thermistor

  • To remove a pin, push in on the small metal tab on the side of the harness then push down on the pin with a flat object and pull the wire free.

  • Pin diagram from Lulzbot's documentation: http://download.lulzbot.com/Mini/1.0/oha...

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  • Using a 1.5mm hex key, remove the M1.5 screw securing the heat sink blower fan.

    • The fan will not be reused for the E3D hotend.

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  • Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the two M3 screws securing the layer cooling fan and lay the still-connected fan off to the side.

  • Reinstall the screws into the layer cooling shroud. They will be used to extract the insets for reuse in a few steps.

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  • Using a 2.5mm hex key, remove the two M3 screws securing the layer cooling fan shroud.

    • Make sure to keep the screws as they will be reused for reassembly.

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  • Using a 1.5mm hex key, remove the two M2 screws securing the X-axis endstop to the stock layer cooling fan shroud and lay the endstop aside with the wires still connected.

  • Set the washers aside for reuse, but screw the screws back in to place temporarily after the endstop has been removed. We will use them to remove the inserts in the next step.

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  • If you have extra M2 and M3 inserts, you can skip this step.

  • This step is best done with the shroud in a bench vice.

  • Using the soldering iron, heat up one of the screws until you can pull both it and the insert out of the stock shroud.

  • Repeat for the other three screws and inserts.

  • Before handling, wait until the screw and insert cool completely or dip them into water to cool them more quickly.

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  • Set an insert on top of one of the holes in the new layer cooling fan shroud and apply heat with the tip of the soldering iron.

  • Once the insert is heated enough, it will slide into place.

  • Repeat for the other three inserts.

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  • Using a 2mm hex key, remove the M3 screw securing the extruder nozzle ground wire to the heater block and lay the still-connected wire aside.

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  • Using a 3mm hex key, remove the two M4 bolts securing the extruder mount plate to the extruder body and set the plate aside.

    • Make sure to keep the screws as they will be reused for reassembly.

  • The stock hex mount plate is not reused and will be replaced with a new part.

  • The hot end can now be completely removed.

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  • Using a 2mm hex key, remove the six M3 screws securing the electronics case to the printer.

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  • Pull the case off the body of the printer and lay it down flat.

    • Be careful not to yank the case fan wire out of its socket.

  • Unplug the case fan from the socket on the main circuit board.

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  • Unplug the old blower fan wire from the main circuit board.

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  • Remove the plastic connector from the end of the old blower fan wire.

  • Unwind the wires so they have as far a reach as possible.

    • With the case open, the wires should be able to reach the power supply with minimal strain.

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  • Connect the old blower fan wire directly to the power supply.

    • Yellow goes to +V

    • Black goes to -V

  • Depending on the length of the fan wires, you may need to connect them to the other end of the power wires at the power input terminal on the RAMBo board.

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  • Plug the case fan back in to its socket.

    • Make sure the polarity is as shown: black on the left, red on the right.

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  • Reattach the case with the six M3 screws on the front and back.

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  • At this point, all these components should be ready for assembly.

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  • Fit the new plate around the top of the E3D hotend as shown.

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  • Insert the hotend and plate assembly into the carriage plate as shown.

  • The hotend will fit but the heat sink shroud will rub against the inside curve of the carriage plate. Not to worry-- the bolts in the next step will hold everything together.

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  • Insert the nuts that you saved from disassembly into the hex holes on the top side of the extruder assembly.

  • Using a 3mm hex key, install the M4 bolts to hold the hotend assembly to the rest of the carriage.

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  • Install the nozzle ground wire from earlier under the screw securing the heater cartridge inside the heat block.

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  • Using a 2.5mm hex key, reattach the layer cooling fan shroud with the two M3 screws from earlier.

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  • Using a 1.5mm hex key, reattach the X axis end stop to the layer cooling fan shroud with the two M2 screws from earlier.

  • Using a 2.5mm hex key, reattach the layer cooling fan with the two M3 screws from earlier.

    • Make sure the wires are oriented up towards the top of the extruder assembly.

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  • Install the newly wired pins into the harness using the diagram from disassembly.

    • The new E3D heat sink fan wires correlate to pins 9 and 10.

    • The new heater cartridge wires correlate to pins 5 and 6.

    • The nozzle ground wire is reinstalled into pin 16.

    • The layer cooling fan wires correlate to pins 7 and 8

    • The thermistor wires correlate to pins 17 and 18.

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  • Using the orientation as shown, route the wires to the right of the heat sink fan, under the carriage and above the layer cooling fan shroud.

  • Bundle the wires using zip ties and the shroud you removed during disassembly.

  • Depending how tangled your wires become in the process, you may need to remove pins from the harness and reattach them in order to route the wires correctly.

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  • With the wires routed and bundled properly, the extruder carriage should now look something like this.

  • It is essential that all wires are bundled or otherwise secured so that they are not strained to reach the harness and also that there is no chance that they will come into contact with the heat block.

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  • Using a 4mm hex key, reattach the extruder assembly to the main carriage using the three M5 screws from disassembly.

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  • Plug in the harness back in.

  • Make sure the wires fit inside and use a 2.5mm hex key to reinstall the two M3 screws securing the top bracket.

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  • Plug in the USB cable to the printer.

  • Plug the other end of the USB cable into the computer.

  • Plug the power cable into the wall, then plug the other end into the printer.

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  • Everything's connected. Flip the printer's power switch.

    • The green light inside the USB port should light up and the E3D hot end heat sink fan should start spinning.

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  • The new E3D hotend is 5.5mm longer than the old Hexagon. We need to make an adjustment to the firmware file so that the printer knows its own total Z axis height and does not crash into the bed or wiping surface.

  • On line 388 of Configuration.h, change the value of Z_MAX_POS from 159 to 153.5.

  • The firmware for the mini can be found on the USB stick that came with your printer or directly from Lulzbot's site. It may be easier to download the folder via ftp.

  • Complete instructions for flashing the firmware can be found on Lulzbot's site.

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  • Bring the hot end up to temperature (260°C), then tighten down the nozzle with a 7mm wrench.

  • If this step is omitted the nozzle will work its way loose from the heat block and plastic will ooze from the threads.

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Finish Line

One other person completed this guide.

Ryan Lutz

Member since: 06/30/2015

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15 Guides authored

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