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  1. Before proceeding, you should first assemble your E3D v6 All Metal HotEnd. Follow E3D's assembly guide. Stop at step 24. The steps after that will be completed as part of this guide.
    • Before proceeding, you should first assemble your E3D v6 All Metal HotEnd. Follow E3D's assembly guide. Stop at step 24. The steps after that will be completed as part of this guide.

    • Make sure that you have printed all of the necessary parts. We recommend printing the mount in either PETG or ABS due to the heat it may be exposed to.

    • Make sure that you have the necessary nuts and bolts. These are listed in the parts list above. If you don't have any on hand you may need to purchase them from McMaster-Carr.

    • If necessary, heat the hot end in order to remove any filament from the hot end and Bowden tubing. Take any spools off the spool holder.

    • Turn off the printer and unplug the power cord.

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  2. The bootloader is a chunk of code on the printer's microcontroller that allows for firmware upgrades over USB.
    • The bootloader is a chunk of code on the printer's microcontroller that allows for firmware upgrades over USB.

    • Creality neglected to install a bootloader when they built the original CR-10. You will need to install the bootloader yourself in order to upload new firmware to the printer

    • The CR-10S (the new version of the CR-10) already has a bootloader installed. If you have a CR-10S then you can skip this step.

    • Flashing the bootloader requires a special tool capable of programming AVR chips.

    • Follow our separate guide for flashing the bootloader on your printer.

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    • In order for the new hot end to work properly, some configuration changes must be made to the firmware. Specifically, the E3D hot end uses a different type of thermistor. Without a firmware configured to use the correct type of thermistor, the temperature readings will be wrong.

    • The CR-10 uses Marlin Firmware. Creality does not publish their files for the stock version of the firmware. This is a violation of Marlin's open source license. Therefore, you must either configure a fresh copy of Marlin yourself, or find a copy that someone else has already configured for the CR-10.

    • For your convenience, MatterHackers has made precompiled firmware images for you. These are based on mainline Marlin 1.1.8. Choose the correct firmware for your specific model of CR-10.

    • If you wish you may compile the firmware yourself. See E3D's instructions on the configuration changes that need to be made and also our guide on compiling and uploading custom firmware.

    Do I use the same CR-10 300 firmware for my CR-10S? It is 300x300x400 model.

    xxquocxanhxx - Reply

    We’ll post the CR-10S firmware soon. I have it configured already, I just need to test it on a machine first.

    Tyler Anderson - Reply

    CR-10S firmware posted.

    Tyler Anderson - Reply

    Thanks! Just to confirm. My CR-10S is 300x300x400 model. This correspond to CR-10S 300 firmware? What are the differences between CR-10S 300, 400, and 500?

    xxquocxanhxx - Reply

    After flashing following this guide, the E axis or the extruder is extruding in a reversed direction. Could you look into this or guide on how to fix this? I’ve read that this can be done via the firmware changing the invert direction line from false to true?

    xxquocxanhxx - Reply

    The only differences are X_BED_SIZE, Y_BED_SIZE, and Z_MAX_POS in Configuration.h. Your printer is an oddball size, so you should either use the 400 firmware or edit the 300 firmware and change Z_MAX_POS. You can reverse the motor direction by changing INVERT_E0_DIR. Alternatively, you can swap the wires on the motor. See https://forums.matterhackers.com/topic/3....

    Tyler Anderson - Reply

    Can I change INVERT_E0_DIR via Mattercontrol terminal?

    xxquocxanhxx -

    I changed the direction and updated the CR10S E3Dv6 images. Try it again.

    FYI, you cannot change the firmware configuration in MatterControl. This has to be done by editing the source files and recompiling the firmware. See the links above for how to do this yourself.

    Tyler Anderson -

    • If you are using one of our precompiled firmware images then you can flash the firmware through MatterControl.

    • If you do not already have MatterControl then download, install it, and choose the correct profile for your machine. Plug your printer in to the computer.

    • If you installed the bootloader earlier then your machine does not have firmware on it at this point. MatterControl will not be able to connect to the printer. This is fine for now. Skip the connection setup.

    • In MatterControl, make sure that the correct serial port is selected for your printer. Go to Settings & Controls > Settings > Printer > Connection and choose the port.

    • Go to Controls and scroll down to the bottom to find the Firmware Updates section. Click the Change button.

    • Select the .hex file you downloaded earlier.

    • MatterControl will now backup the original firmware (if it has not already been erased) and upload the new firmware. You can monitor the progress by going to View > Terminal.

    • When it is done your printer will reboot and show the splash screen for Marlin.

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    • Unscrew the four M2 screws holding the layer cooling fan on.

    • Save the screws and the duct piece for later.

    • Remove the fabric tape around the end of the wire harness sheath.

    • Let the layer cooling fan dangle.

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    • Unscrew the two M3 screws that hold the fan shroud on.

    • Cut the yellow and purple wires going to the heat sink fan.

    • Discard the fan and the shroud.

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    • Remove the bowden tube by pushing the white collet ring down while pulling the tube up.

    • You will not be able to remove the tube if you have left filament in the printer.

    • Cut the red wires going to the heater.

    • Cut the white wires going to the thermistor.

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    • Unscrew the two M3 screws that hold the hot end on.

    • Discard the old hot end.

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    • Use the soldering iron to press in the two M3 heat set inserts in the front of the base piece.

    • These are for attaching the hot end clamp.

    • Use a knife to cut away any excess plastic that gets pushed out around the edge of the insert.

    • See our article for more information on how to use heat set inserts.

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    • Press in the two M2 inserts in the side of the base piece.

    • These are for holding the layer cooling fan.

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    • Place the base piece on the carriage and screw it in place using three M3x6 screws.

    • You can reuse some screws from the original hot end.

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    • Fit the new E3D hot end into the groove mount.

    • Orient the hot end so that the wires are coming out the left side.

    • Fit the clamp piece in place and screw it down using two M3x14 screws.

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    • Check the end of the bowden tube and make sure that it is not plugged with plastic. Also ensure that the end is cut square.

    • If your bowden tube is worn, then you may consider replacing it with the new tube provided in your E3D kit.

    • Insert the tube into the new hot end. Make sure that it goes all the way in.

    • Put the blue locking clip in place under the black ring.

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    • Use an M2x6 screw in the top right of the layer cooling fan to attach it to the mount.

    • Slide the duct onto the bottom of the fan and use another M2 screw to attach the bottom right side of the fan to the mount.

    • Use a third M2 screw and an M2 nut to hold the left side of the duct to the fan.

    • You can reuse the screws that originally held the fan on.

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    • We now need to splice the proper connectors onto the printers wiring. We will use the connectors from the wires that came in the E3D kit.

    • You can use a zip tie to hold the sheath out of the way while you work.

    • Take the two wires provided in your E3D kit and cut a 10 cm length from each. Use the end with the large connector.

    • Strip 2 cm from the ends of the wires.

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    • Strip 2 cm from the ends of the yellow and purple wires that were connected to the original heat sink fan.

    • Cut two pieces of 3 cm long heat shrink tubing and slide them onto the yellow and purple wires.

    • Twist the yellow and purple wires to the red and black wires from a connector you prepared in the last step.

      • Yellow goes to red.

      • Purple goes to black.

    • Solder the connections.

    • Slide the heat shrink tubing down over the connections and use a heat gun to shrink it.

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    • Repeat the process for the last step by soldering the other connector to the two white wires for the thermistor.

    • The thermistor wires are nonpolarized, which means it does not matter which wire you connect to which.

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    • The heater cartridge does not have a connector. It gets spliced in directly.

    • Cut the blue wires from the heater down so that they can easily connect to the red wires.

    • Solder the blue and red wires together using the same process as the last two steps.

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    • Plug in the connectors for the thermistor and the heat sink fan. Make sure that the thermistor goes to the white wires and the layer cooling fan goes to the purple/yellow wires.

    • You may want to mark the connectors with a sharpie so they do not get confused in the future.

    • Slide the sheath down over the wires and wrap the end with the original fabric tape, if you still have it.

    • Secure the wire harness to the bowden tube using a zip tie.

    • Also use a zip tie on the hot end wires to organize them and hold them together.

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    • Turn on the printer.

    • Check and make sure that the temperature reading for the hot end is accurate. It should be reading room temperature. If it reads 0, or a high number, then there is an electrical problem.

    • Check and make sure that the heat sink fan is running.

    • Hot-tightening is the last mechanical step before your V6 is ready to go! Hot-tightening is essential to sealing the nozzle and heatsink together to ensure that molten plastic cannot leak out of the hotend in use.

    • Set the hotend temperature to 270°C. Allow the hotend to reach 270°C and wait one minute to allow all components to equalise in temperature.

    • Use an adjustable wrench to hold the heater block in place while you tighten the nozzle using a 7 mm crescent wrench.

    • Do not overtighten the nozzle. You want to aim for 3 Nm of torque on the hot nozzle. This is about as much pressure as you can apply with one finger on a small wrench.

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    • Set the hot end temperature to 0 and wait for it to cool off.

    • Fit the silicone sock over the heater block.

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    • Proper PID settings ensure that your hot end will reach the correct temperature and it will not fluctuate.

    • Follow our separate guide for running PID tuning.

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    • Our hot end mount is designed to hold the new nozzle at the same height as the old one. However, there are still likely to be minor differences.

    • Double check your bed leveling and adjust it if necessary.

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    • Run a test print!

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Finish Line

4 other people completed this guide.

Tyler Anderson

Member since: 06/30/2015

2,149 Reputation

20 Guides authored

7 Comments

Can I follow these steps with a clone e3d v6? even the flashing of the firmware?

Marco - Reply

Is it possible to use this procedure / firmware on the Ender 3 printer?

Martin Kucharovic - Reply

When I attach the Hotend with this mount . Is the Hotend not above the bed , because the bed moves too far back for this mount. Do I need a new Y-endstop mount to use this mount?

Philip Hotz - Reply

The nozzle sits slightly farther forward with this mount, so it does not home over the bed. This was necessary for the parts to fit, but I think it is also preferable since it prevents the nozzle from driving into the bed when you home. You do not need to adjust the Y endstop unless you are worried about losing a couple millimeters of print area.

Tyler Anderson - Reply

You really threw me with the .amf file format. Please tell me how I can convert these files to something I can print.

Alan

agil@sti.net - Reply

You can export STL out of onShape with the free account.

Hugh Cowart - Reply

I don’t know why these were published as AMF files. I changed them to STLs.

Tyler Anderson - Reply

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