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How to Install an E3D HotEnd on a Rostock MAX V2

Written By: Ryan Lutz (and 2 other contributors)
  • Comments: 6
  • Favorites: 0
  • Completions: 6

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

19

Time Required

Suggest a time??

Sections

1

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0

Introduction

For the E3D v6 HotEnd assembly instructions, click here.

For a modified printer profile for the E3D v6 on the Rostock MAX V2, as well as the guide on how to install a custom printer profile in MatterControl visit this guide: How to Add an E3D v6 Profile to MatterControl

  1. If necessary, heat the hot end in order to remove any filament from the hot end and Bowden tubing. Take any spools off the spool holder.

    • If necessary, heat the hot end in order to remove any filament from the hot end and Bowden tubing. Take any spools off the spool holder.

    • Turn off the printer and unplug the power cord.

    • Move the delta carriages to the bottom of their towers so the arms point up and the hot end is supported.

    Edit

  2. Unscrew and disconnect the Bowden tubing from the top of the hot end. Unscrew and disconnect the Bowden tubing from the top of the hot end.

    • Unscrew and disconnect the Bowden tubing from the top of the hot end.

    Edit

  3. Remove the fan shrouds from the end effector. These will not be reused for the E3D v6 and can be discarded.

    • Remove the fan shrouds from the end effector.

    • These will not be reused for the E3D v6 and can be discarded.

    Edit

  4. Cut the wires to the heat sink fan, leaving enough length to add a new connection. Strip 3mm off the end of each wire. Do not cut the wires to the layer cooling blower fan; just let the blower fan hang from the end of the bundle.

    • Cut the wires to the heat sink fan, leaving enough length to add a new connection.

    • Strip 3mm off the end of each wire.

    • Do not cut the wires to the layer cooling blower fan; just let the blower fan hang from the end of the bundle.

    Edit

  5. Unscrew the three screws securing the upper melamine plate to the end effector. You'll need to hold on to the nuts on top with a wrench or pliers.

    • Unscrew the three screws securing the upper melamine plate to the end effector.

    • You'll need to hold on to the nuts on top with a wrench or pliers.

    • The screws, nuts, and metal spacers will not be reused.

    Edit

  6. The hot end will now come off of the end effector. Cut the four wires leading to the thermistor and heat cartridge as shown. Strip 3mm off the ends to prepare them for soldering. Remove the connector from the end of the Bowden tube.

    • The hot end will now come off of the end effector.

    • Cut the four wires leading to the thermistor and heat cartridge as shown. Strip 3mm off the ends to prepare them for soldering.

    • Remove the connector from the end of the Bowden tube.

    Edit

  7. For the E3D v6 HotEnd assembly instructions, click here. Cut all the hot end wires down to about 20mm from the end of the red insulation on the blue heater cartridge wires.

    • For the E3D v6 HotEnd assembly instructions, click here.

    • Cut all the hot end wires down to about 20mm from the end of the red insulation on the blue heater cartridge wires.

    Edit

  9. Strip 3mm off the ends of the thermistor, fan, and heat cartridge wires.

    • Strip 3mm off the ends of the thermistor, fan, and heat cartridge wires.

    Edit

  10. Solder all six wires to their matching counterpart:

    • Solder all six wires to their matching counterpart:

    • Blue heater cartridge - thick red

    • Blue heater cartridge - thick black

    • Red thermistor - thick white

    • Black thermistor - thick green

    • E3D fan red - thin red

    • E3D fan black - thin black

    • Don't forget heat-shrink tubing!

    Edit

    • Fit the spacer mount piece onto the hot end.

    Edit

  12. Stand the mount up on top of the end effector platform and line up the screw holes with the spacer holes. Insert the 2-1/2" screws through the holes in the end effector platform. Insert the 2-1/2" screws through the holes in the end effector platform.

    • Stand the mount up on top of the end effector platform and line up the screw holes with the spacer holes.

    • Insert the 2-1/2" screws through the holes in the end effector platform.

    Edit

  13. Place the other mount piece on top of the spacer stand down over the protruding screws. Tuck the wires into the side of the platform. Screw on the wing nuts to the top of the screws and hand-tighten.

    • Place the other mount piece on top of the spacer stand down over the protruding screws.

    • Tuck the wires into the side of the platform.

    • Screw on the wing nuts to the top of the screws and hand-tighten.

    • A 7/64" hex key might be necessary to hold the screw steady while tightening the wing nut.

    Edit

  14. Insert the Bowden tube into the top of the new hot end.

    • Insert the Bowden tube into the top of the new hot end.

    Edit

  15. Attach the new layer cooling fan shroud to the end effector platform and press fit the fan into it. Route the fan wires through the side of the platform with the other wires. Route the fan wires through the side of the platform with the other wires.

    • Attach the new layer cooling fan shroud to the end effector platform and press fit the fan into it.

    • Route the fan wires through the side of the platform with the other wires.

    Edit

  16. Open the Repetier.ino file in the Arduino IDE version 1.0.6 and edit Configuration.h: Change the value of EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE to 8. The line should read:

    • Open the Repetier.ino file in the Arduino IDE version 1.0.6 and edit Configuration.h:

    • Change the value of EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE to 8. The line should read:

    • #define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE 8

    • Change the value of MAXTEMP to 300. The line should read:

    • #define MAXTEMP 300

    • Upload the edited firmware to the printer.

    Edit

  17. Move the printer's delta arms back into operating position. Connect the printer to MatterControl and set the extruder temperature to 260°C. The hot end fan should start up once the temperature is set to any temperature higher than 50°C.

    • Move the printer's delta arms back into operating position.

    • Connect the printer to MatterControl and set the extruder temperature to 260°C.

    • The hot end fan should start up once the temperature is set to any temperature higher than 50°C.

    • Using a 7mm socket wrench and an adjustable wrench or tongue-and-groove pliers to hold the heat block steady, tighten the nozzle.

    • Do not over-tighten; one firm adjustment in the right direction is sufficient.

    Edit

  18. While the hot end is still hot, use MatterControl to heat the bed to 60° C. Both the hot end and bed must be hot so they expand as they would during printing. Once the bed is hot, press the knob-button next to the built-in LCD display on the printer and navigate to Advanced Settings -> Calibrate Z Height.

    • While the hot end is still hot, use MatterControl to heat the bed to 60° C.

    • Both the hot end and bed must be hot so they expand as they would during printing.

    • Once the bed is hot, press the knob-button next to the built-in LCD display on the printer and navigate to Advanced Settings -> Calibrate Z Height.

    Edit

  19. Select Z Position. Using the knob, lower the nozzle close enough to the bed that a piece of paper barely moves underneath it. If the paper moves freely, the nozzle is too far away.

    • Select Z Position.

    • Using the knob, lower the nozzle close enough to the bed that a piece of paper barely moves underneath it.

    • If the paper moves freely, the nozzle is too far away.

    • If the paper doesn't move at all, the nozzle is too close.

    • The value should be somewhere around -8mm, as that is about the difference in height between the old hot end and the new.

    • When you're satisfied, press the knob button.

    • Use the knob to navigate to Set new Z=0.00.

    • Press the knob to store the new height.

    Edit

  20. Follow the PID tuning guide to calibrate the new hot end.
    Edit
Finish Line

6 other people completed this guide.

Author

with 2 other contributors

Ryan Lutz

Member since: 06/30/2015

1,648 Reputation

15 Guides authored

6 Comments

Add a comment

does this work for the 100k NTC Thermistor 3950 as well?

Kyle Larson - Reply

The NTC3950 is a different thermistor from the ATC Semitec 104GT-2 and is not one of the predefined models available in Repetier, so you'll need to use a user-defined table and enter the specs manually from a datasheet.

This topic on the SeeMeCNC forum should have the answers you're looking for: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?...

Ryan Lutz -

so im tackling this process on an Orion Delta, as it seems almost identical, up until the part where i'm soldering the six pairs of wires in step 9. I'm trying to solder the thermistor to the appropriate wires, but instead of having green and white wires there are only white wires. Should the wires still be paired in a specific way?

Julian Hsu - Reply

Thermistors are just resistors, which are non-polar. They can be wired in either direction and will still measure the same resistance.

Ryan Lutz -

This does not work with a Rostock V2 with the new arms!!!! The nozzle and the ball of the arms are at the same height. I also bought the 3D models to print.....The legs on the tower are too long...Nozzle will not touch table....New Legs do first! I wasted money on a 3D model that doesn't work.

Majestic Gaming - Reply

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