Skip to main content

Site Navigation

Your Account

Choose Language

Introduction

Warnings - Please Read!

1. The HeatBreak is fragile. If you are using a large spanner, hitting it with a hammer, etc. It will break.

2. The thermistor is small and fragile. Be gentle with the legs. The bead is made of glass - don't crush! It is also very small, so don't breathe.

3. You are dealing with high temperatures - the HotEnd gets hot, and may be off your printer when you do the initial tightening. If you touch it, you will get burned!

4. You are dealing with high currents, make sure you double check all your wiring and your power supply rating. It is not recommended to work on anything whilst it is plugged in. Bad wiring with improper current ratings can cause fire.

5. Be sure you have ordered (and received!) the correct voltage heater and fan to match your 3D printer. If the heater cartridge specification is not lasered onto the cartridge, you can easily check with a multimeter, this is described in the #Heater_Cartridge section. Connecting 12v parts to 24v power can result in overheating, component damage or fire.

6. The E3D-v6 is a high performance HotEnd, capable of reaching a wide range of temperatures. The temperatures that ignite some plastics are within the normal printing temperatures of other plastics. If you only plan on printing ABS, PLA, and/or Nylon, it is recommended that you set your heater cartridge “MAX_PWM” to 150 in your firmware, in order to limit the E3D’s heater to a range suitable for these plastics. If you are not printing materials requiring ~300C, there is no need for “MAX_PWM" to be set over 150. This variable can usually be found in the configuration.h file of your printers firmware. You can always change it to a higher value when you want to experiment with higher temperatures, it is much more difficult to extinguish a housefire.​

7. Like all 3D printers, printers fitted with a high temperature all metal hotend can be a fire hazard. You are using experimental technology to heat and melt plastic, in a machine that you may have built or modified yourself, that likely does not have safety certification or significant failsafes. Fire/Smoke alarms, supervision of your printer while printing, and expertise should not be considered optional.

8. Your HotEnd and your printer is your responsibility. We cannot be held responsible for damages caused by the use, misuse or abuse of our products.

  1. Screw Nozzle into the Heater Block into the end closest to the thermistor holes.
    • Screw Nozzle into the Heater Block into the end closest to the thermistor holes.

    • Unscrew the Nozzle a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn.

  2. Screw the Heat Break into the other side of the Heater Block so it is butts up against the nozzle.
    • Screw the Heat Break into the other side of the Heater Block so it is butts up against the nozzle.

  3. Gripping the Heater Block with a spanner, tighten the Nozzle with a second spanner.
    • Gripping the Heater Block with a spanner, tighten the Nozzle with a second spanner.

    • Do not over-tighten, we are going to tighten it up later when the heater block is hot.

  4. Cut the blue glass-fiber sleeving into 2 x 35mm lengths and slide them onto the legs of the thermistor.
    • Cut the blue glass-fiber sleeving into 2 x 35mm lengths and slide them onto the legs of the thermistor.

    • Optional: Crimp a ferrule on each leg over the sleeving to ensure the sleeving stays in place. Ensure you position this ferrule such that it will not touch the heater block when assembled (you will need to place it some way from the thermistor head if you are assembling a volcano heater block).

  5. Hold the thermistor between your finger and thumb and make a 90º bend in the legs about 5mm from the tip of the bead.
    • Hold the thermistor between your finger and thumb and make a 90º bend in the legs about 5mm from the tip of the bead.

  6. Place the of the thermistor into the hole, and fasten in place using the smaller M3x4 screw and washer. Use your fingernails to keep the sleeving under the washer whilst tightening. Visually check that the blue sleeving is isulating the legs of the thermistor right down to the bead. If the legs make electrical contact with the block or each other your temperature readings will be incorrect and you risk overheating.
    • Place the of the thermistor into the hole, and fasten in place using the smaller M3x4 screw and washer.

    • Use your fingernails to keep the sleeving under the washer whilst tightening.

    • Visually check that the blue sleeving is isulating the legs of the thermistor right down to the bead. If the legs make electrical contact with the block or each other your temperature readings will be incorrect and you risk overheating.

  7. If you have one, grab a multimeter and check the resistance of your heater cartridge against the information in this table. Expect your value to deviate a little from these, however if yours is significantly off or you are concerned you have the wrong cartridge please contact E3D for support.
    • If you have one, grab a multimeter and check the resistance of your heater cartridge against the information in this table. Expect your value to deviate a little from these, however if yours is significantly off or you are concerned you have the wrong cartridge please contact E3D for support.

    • Insert the Heater Cartridge with the leads exiting the block the same side as the thermistor.​ Centre the cartridge in its hole in the block.

  8. Tighten the clamping portion of the heater block around the heater cartridge with the longer M3x10 screw. As in the photo below you should be able to see very slight deformation of the heater block clamp as it wraps around the cartridge for maximum thermal contact.
    • Tighten the clamping portion of the heater block around the heater cartridge with the longer M3x10 screw. As in the photo below you should be able to see very slight deformation of the heater block clamp as it wraps around the cartridge for maximum thermal contact.

  9. Strip the ends of the red and black thermistor cable and put a length of heatshrink over each wire.
    • Strip the ends of the red and black thermistor cable and put a length of heatshrink over each wire.

  10. Place a ferrule on each sleeved thermistor leg. If you have the flared mouth of the ferrule pointing away from the hotend it makes it easier to push them over the wires later.
    • Place a ferrule on each sleeved thermistor leg.

    • If you have the flared mouth of the ferrule pointing away from the hotend it makes it easier to push them over the wires later.

    • Form the thermistor wire and bare portion of the thermistor legs into hooks, and hook the legs together.

    • Push the ferrule over the bare portions of the wires ready to crimp into place.

  11. Crimp the ferrules by firmly crushing them with a pair of pliers.
    • Crimp the ferrules by firmly crushing them with a pair of pliers.

    • You can use a fancy ferrule crimping tool if you have one, but it's not needed.

  12. Slide the heatshrink down over the now crushed ferrules and shrink into place with a heat source such as a soldering iron, heat gun, or even a flame.
    • Slide the heatshrink down over the now crushed ferrules and shrink into place with a heat source such as a soldering iron, heat gun, or even a flame.

  13. Screw the HeatSink onto the HeatBreak by gripping the heatsink in one hand and the heater block in the other. It only needs to be tightened up hand-tight.
    • Screw the HeatSink onto the HeatBreak by gripping the heatsink in one hand and the heater block in the other. It only needs to be tightened up hand-tight.

    • Do not over-tighten.​

    • The following four steps apply to these versions and special considerations relating to them:

    • 1.75mm Direct

    • 1.75mm Bowden

    • 3mm Bowden

    • 3mm Direct does not use any PTFE tubing.

  14. The PTFE tubing in the 1.75mm Direct configuration is not optional, you must use the tubing or the HotEnd will not function properly.
    • The PTFE tubing in the 1.75mm Direct configuration is not optional, you must use the tubing or the HotEnd will not function properly.

    • The tubing should be inserted from the top of the now assembled hotend and pushed as far down into the hotend as possible.

    • In 1.75mm HotEnds the tubing passes right through the heatsink and into the heatbreak. Below is an illustration of how far down the PTFE tubing must extend. The photo is not an assembly step, just an illustration of what should be happening inside your hotend.

    • The PTFE tube actually runs through the Heat Sink and into the Heat Break. Please ensure the tubing as seated as deep into the hotend as possible.

  15. The tubing should be inserted from the top of the now assembled hotend and pushed as far down into the hotend as possible. The PTFE tube actually runs through the Heat Sink and into the Heat Break, please ensure the tubing as seated as deep into the hotend as possible.
    • The tubing should be inserted from the top of the now assembled hotend and pushed as far down into the hotend as possible.

    • The PTFE tube actually runs through the Heat Sink and into the Heat Break, please ensure the tubing as seated as deep into the hotend as possible.

    • The tubing passes right through the heatsink and into the heatbreak. Below is an illustration of how far down the PTFE tubing must extend. The second photo is not an assembly step, just an illustration of what should be happening inside your hotend.

  16. The PTFE tubing pushes into the top of the heatsink and stops inside the heatsink.
    • The PTFE tubing pushes into the top of the heatsink and stops inside the heatsink.

  17. To release the tubing from the heatsink simply press down on the black or grey collet in the top of heatsink while pulling on the tubing.
    • To release the tubing from the heatsink simply press down on the black or grey collet in the top of heatsink while pulling on the tubing.

    • In 1.75mm Direct configurations thought should be given to running the PTFE right up as close to the hobbed bolt/drive gear as possible as this provides the easiest loading and the best performance with all filament types.

    • If you do not wish to run PTFE up to the hobbed bolt or drive gear you can simply cut the tubing off flush with the top of the hotend.

    • The photo shows a cutaway of how an optimal PTFE configuration might look in a Wade's-type extruder. The PTFE tubing extends right up to the hobbed bolt.

  18. Figure out which way up you want the fan duct to sit on the HotEnd given your particular mounting arrangements. We recommend mounting it with the over-hang at the top. If you have it hanging down however, please keep it clear of the heater block. Remove the fan duct from the HeatSink.
    • Figure out which way up you want the fan duct to sit on the HotEnd given your particular mounting arrangements. We recommend mounting it with the over-hang at the top. If you have it hanging down however, please keep it clear of the heater block.

    • Remove the fan duct from the HeatSink.

    • Screw the screws into the fan such that the ends are just protruding from the other side of the fan. The sticker of the fan must face the heatsink to blow air over the heatsink.

  19. Using the 4 Plastfast screws, attach the fan to the fan-duct such that the wires exit the fan in a convenient location - preferably such that it can be bundled in with the thermistor and heater cartridge cables. It can sometimes take quite a lot of torque to get the screws all the way in. Be sure to select a screwdriver that is a good fit or you risk striping the heads of the screws.
    • Using the 4 Plastfast screws, attach the fan to the fan-duct such that the wires exit the fan in a convenient location - preferably such that it can be bundled in with the thermistor and heater cartridge cables.

    • It can sometimes take quite a lot of torque to get the screws all the way in. Be sure to select a screwdriver that is a good fit or you risk striping the heads of the screws.

    • Clip the fan duct to the HeatSink.

  20. Cable-tie all cables together as additional strain relief.
    • Cable-tie all cables together as additional strain relief.

    • It is important to ensure the wires of the fan and the red/black section of the thermistor cable are cable-tied and strain relieved in such a way that they cannot come into contact with the heater block at any time.

    • Fan should be wired directly to a 12v power supply and be constantly running. Do not connect to a "Fan" output of a controller board or similar; those are for fans that cool the printed object, not a hotend fan which needs to always be running.

  21. When the HotEnd is at tempereature, tighten the nozzle whilst holding the heater block with a spanner.
    • When the HotEnd is at tempereature, tighten the nozzle whilst holding the heater block with a spanner.

    • This will tighten the nozzle against the HeatBreak and ensure that your HotEnd does not leak.

    • You want to aim for 3Nm of torque on the hot nozzle - this is about as much pressure as you can apply with one finger on a small spanner.

    • The nozzle does not need to be torqued down incredibly tightly to form a good seal, when at lower tempreatures the aluminium will contract and hold the Nozzle and HeatBreak together.

Conclusion

Attribution

Based on E3D's documentation directly from their website, originally released under license CC BY 3.0: E3D-v6 Assembly by users Joshuarowley42, Sanjay, and Smogit: http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_A...

Pictures were scaled to meet minimum requirements and some verbiage has been altered slightly for clarification.

Usage Guidance

In general the E3D-v6 hotend is highly tolerant of most printing conditions and is designed to accept the vast majority of filaments on the market. There are however some things to be aware of:

  • Filament must be within acceptable diameter tolerance. For 1.75mm this means 1.70mm - 1.80mm and for 3.00mm/2.85mm the filament must be between 2.80mm and 3.05mm
  • Excessively long retractions will cause issues by dragging soft filament into cold areas. E3D-v6 hotends need less retraction than most hotends. For direct extrusion systems you should use anywhere from 0.5mm-1.0mm, for bowden systems you might want to go up to 2mm. Retraction beyond 2mm is likely to cause issues.
  • The heatsink must be cooled! Heated chambers, fan ducts that restrict flow, and not having the fan running at 100% at all times are common causes of issues. The heatsink should be cool to the touch at all times. If your heatsink is warm to the touch then you have a cooling issue that must be addressed.

More Info

3 other people completed this guide.

Ryan Lutz

Member since: 06/30/2015

1,642 Reputation

15 Guides authored

0 Comments

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 1

Past 7 Days: 8

Past 30 Days: 31

All Time: 5,996